After a good nights sleep I was ready to get going on what my original plan which was to ride from Ashton to Dubois, Wyoming. 126 miles but over 7,000 feet of climbing and many miles on gravel, dirt forest service roads. Every morning before my ride I would review the ride on my Komoot app and my Garmin. This would give me mile by mile details including climbs. For whatever reason, the GPX file of both contained no climbs. I knew this was wrong of course and I really needed those profiles for such a tough day. I tried to rebuild the GPX files on my tablet but Garmin limits you to what you can do via an app. So Lori to the rescue. I walked her through step by step on my computer at the house on how to rebuild the GPX file and reload into my Garmin Connect account and then send to my bike garmin. She was amazing. Worked beautifully. But now I was getting a late start.
Not far out of Ashton I was diverted to a rough sort of path supposedly cycleway Ashton Tetonia Rail Trail that took me towards the west entrance of the Targhee National Forest and the Grassy Lake Forest Service Road. This was going to be really remote and in the heart of bear country. The trail turned to pavement at East 1200 north and at about 22 miles, the road ended. There was a big sign that said ROAD CLOSED.
At the same time, a blue Ford pickup pulled up and a gentleman got out and made it very clear that the road was closed due to the snow being too deep still for the road to be passable. He was a lifelong resident from the area (Rexburg and Ashton) and this was his favorite road to go bear hunting. Slim was very concerned that I was going to try to get through. I showed him the TransAm app and the riders that had already successfully been through this way. He was doubtful and gave me his cell number in case I needed him. Also, so that I could update him on the conditions.
He explained to me that he was going to a certain spot and he would be available while he was out looking for “his” bear as well as looking for young aspen trees. So off I went not knowing the adventure that would lie ahead. The road was very rough and obviously not maintained and still weathered from the winter. There would be lots of up and down including 12-16 degree pitches to climb through rough rocks and barely any road surface.
The Targhee national forest was so different. Incredibly beautiful. Lakes, meadows, mountain streams, creeks. Aspens, Pine trees. But also mud, huge mud puddles and creeks out covering the road. And eventually snow. Lots of Snow. And of course, a big brown bear. What more could you ask for in a ride?
It was this day that my mindset of knocking out 27 days day in and day out hitting the miles and the daily targets, started to slip away. It was another day of spectacular scenery and an experience that was leaving me speechless. Sending my mind to places that erased all that I thought I knew about bike packing and ultra distance riding. I wanted to be here. I wanted to take it in slowly, surely, take pictures. Walk my bike instead of grinding out another 12 degree pitch on a very loose rough surface. Time was slowing down to a crawl, but for the first time I wasn’t worried. it was what it was. The greatest gift of cycling is it is all about the moment. Now. the Present is the Present. I decided I would find the greatest spot ever and stop for lunch.
And I did. A roaring snow melt stream coming down the mountain just a short hike from the road. I leaned my bike against a tree, grabbed my feedbag and headed down. It was cold, crystal clear. I had to drink from it. I sat down and had the best sandwich ever. No longer in a hurry or thinking about what time it was. Just enveloped by the landscape and the peacefulness of nature.
After lunch, I set out again but only made it a mile or so and I ran into a big brown bear feeding right at the side of the road. I stopped. He sensed me and looked over. I kept my distance. He continued to feed. He wasn’t moving on. I didn’t want to ride by him as that would put me within about 10-15 feet of him and disturb his lunch. I elected to hike my bike up the hill into the woods and make a wide path around him. He kept looking up to see where I was but seemed okay with my decision. Once past, I rode on.
It wasn’t long that I got to Calf Creek. Slim told me this was where the snow would start to be an issue. There was some snow but mostly mud from the snow melt. I worked my way through it. Once I got to the end of the Targhee National Forest Road and started on the John D Rockefeller Jr Memorial Parkway, this is where the elevation was near the summit and the heavier snow covered the road. BTW, this is no parkway. It is barely a road and is really a continuation of Grassy Lake Road. Not sure who named this but it was obviously tongue in cheek.
Now that I was near the summit, the road was consistently covered by snow. I had been passed along the way by a car – already saw them heading back before Calf Creek and then a four wheel drive forerunner. The forerunner evidently made it through but there was some pretty deep snow that I pushed my bike over or through. Once I cleared the summit the road got better and I entered wildfire damaged area. I was now on the Targhee – Yellowstone – Jackson side of the National Forest and much closer to civilization than I realized. I encountered the forerunner heading back and the couple looked plenty annoyed. I finally got to the end of the road and there was a big metal gate that had the road closed from the East entrance. The other side was a huge RV Campground, a tent camping area and the Flagg Ranch Headwaters Resort.
I just pushed my bike around the small gap on once side of the gate and continued on. I did let Slim know later when I had bandwidth that I got through and the conditions. I appreciated his concern. I was so happy to reach the Flagg Ranch and was way past worrying about miles and time that I have no idea what time it was. It looks like I texted Lori at 3:20 pm. A super friendly employee of the Resort was outside when I rode up and she was so happy to see me and full of questions on my ride through the pass. She said the Forest Service had to pull out someone the day before. I asked her about the Resort and she said this was Vail’s ONLY non winter resort. I had no idea. They had rooms, campsites, cabins, restaurants, bars and a great little convenience store. Nice bathrooms and wifi… I stocked up and had lunch 2 and hung out in the lobby. I was oddly entertained by an international couple that had accidentally sprayed themselves with Bear Spray and the staff had a special solution to get it off and ease their pain.
I talked to my new friend again and she suggested that I look at stopping to camp at the Colter Bay Campground in the Grand Teton National Park area. She said it was a big climb out of the resort up Huckleberry Mountain (imagine that) and then about 18 miles or so. I was feeling great again, refueled and water’s full. Ready for the next leg of this wonderful adventure today. The ride was on Highway 191 which is the main highway from Yellowstone National Park to Grand Teton National Park. Very busy but a great shoulder and I was happy, happy.
There were so many fantastic views and scenic lookouts along the way I had to stop and take pics. I arrived at the huge mega resort complex of Colter Bay around 5:45 pm. I had been out on the bike for over 10 hours, but only 7:21 hours riding time and 66 miles. A total change in Mission and Mindset. There was a convenience store and gas station on the way in. Then the campgrounds. I went to the Campground entrance and because I am a hiker/biker, I needed to go to another station to get my pass and then come back. So I did. I was treated so kindly and because I am a senior I got the discounted hiker biker camp site fee of $7.87. Then back to the original guy who told me where to ride to for my campsite. Basically, if you take the entire campground and go the farthest point, there are 8 really nice, private hiker biker campsites. This night I was the only one. I picked my spot, set up my tent. Threw all my bags into the Bear container and then pedaled back down and around to the General store.
The general store where I needed to resupply closed at 8:00pm. The main restaurant closed at 9:00pm. I pedaled down to the huge restaurant. Ming the hostess from Thailand said I get could get a table around 7:00pm. I rode back up to the General store and got my groceries. Then back to the Restaurant about 6:50 and Ming had my table ready. Most of the employees at the store and the restaurant were internationals. In fact I would say 60-70% of the guests were international visitors. So many languages but mostly Italian and French. I ordered Pasta (was delicious) and I had my tablet with me. I was now starting to doubt my original plan of rinse and repeat for 27 days and revisiting how much I enjoyed just riding today with no pressure to be anywhere.
I was curious where I was at on the TransAm route as well as the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route which goes through Steamboat. The wheels were turning but no decisions made. I had already been riding on the GDMBR today and would be clear to Riverton. I finished dinner. Pedro had dropped my check off in the folio and had picked it up with my credit card. I suspect it never came back before I left. Tired, happy, full, content, a great campsite and I did have a beer with dinner. I rode down to Jackson Lake before heading back and the view of the Tetons were spectacular. I also rode over to the public beach area. Incredible. I knew the view in the morning would be even better as the mountains faced East.
Goodnight Moon, Life is Good.
